Rock'n'Roll wedding...

When I was a child I hated weddings. They were boring. We would travel for miles to see people I didn't know that well only to have to sit down quietly for hours and be frequently told off whenever you stood up or asked a question. As I grew up I started to change my mind. Weddings were OK. People got drunk, wore some very age-inappropriate clothes and generally became fodder for bitchy comments. And then friends started to get married which is when weddings really became fun. The wedding itself meant more and at the reception I was the one getting drunk. And then I came to Japan. And like every foriegner who's been to see the sights, I inevitably wandered into a temple or two and saw a traditional wedding in progress, and enjoyed looking at the costumes, marvelling at the sober ceremony. So I was very excited to be invited to Tiger and Yoko's wedding in Hiroshima city- what would the day hold? And this is what I thought about during the drive to Chad's new place in Onomichi on Friday night. Whatever happens, it was bound to be a good day.

Except that it wasn't just a good day, it was a great one. Possibly the most rock and roll wedding I will ever go to. Here's a simple guide on how to make your wedding rock'n'roll:

1) Open the free bar BEFORE the wedding begins (2:30pm)
2) Have 3 costume changes for the bride and groom at the reception.
3) Have the groom's really good rock band play at the reception.
4) Have an all-you-can-eat-and-drink after party in an Irish bar after the reception.
5) Spend four hours in karaoke with all the guests still drinking.

Basically the key items are free bar, music and costume changes. Chad was doing a speech and Jamie was also singing at the reception, so both had vowed to not drink until after their bits were done, but the sight of mixed cocktails tore through their resolution and the rest of us really had to support them in this, so at 2pm we were drinking. The civil ceremony started at 2:30 in the hotel chapel (sans religious fixtures). After the registrar made his grand entrance to music as if he were a reigning sports champion, Tiger and Yoko were walking the aisle, he in a morning suit and she in a white wedding dress whose train was more shinkansen in the glamour stakes. The ceremony was short but featured the usual moments, rings, signing the register and vows, and soon the couple were making their way back down the aisle. And a short while later they were stood by a golden screen in traditional Japanese costume- Yoko in a splendid red and gold kimono- while we made our way into the reception hall. Which was bonkers. Presents for the guests on every chair!

The 6 of us foriegners were sat together which was some relief as the food was ultra gourmet (caviar anyone?) and we spent lots of time trying to figure out what the various components were, but then we realised lots more interesting things were going on. First, Tiger and Yoko had to break the lid of a sake drum together (perhaps a variation on cutting the cake) and all the guests drank the sake, then there were the speeches (well done Chad!) and then they sauntered off for a quick costume change back into the western style weding outfits. Coming back in they allowed time for photos before making their way to the front table (seating only the two of them- the families sat in the far corners) and then hosting a mass game of janken-po (or rock, paper, scissors as it is know to us). And throughout the food kept on coming- after the gourmet fish plate there was sashimi (slices of raw fish), onigiri (raw fish on rice with wasabi paste), vegetable tempura, lobster, noodle soup, beef and salad, and finally melon and cake. Then Jamie got up and sang, to be followed by Tiger and his band after which it was time for another costume change- different clothes again- and on making their entrance Toger and Yoko walked around the room lighting candles on each table as they went.

This was the final stage of the reception where Tiger and Yoko made speeches to their parents and gave them flowers and the tears began to flow. And thanks to the booze continuing to flow everyone else was at least slightly tipsy. So it ended with bride, groom and their families all in tears looking more miserable than happy but cheer up-we're heading out for the after party! Which is in an Irish bar called Molly Malones. For a minimal cost (5000 yen- around 25pounds) we had an all you can eat extravaganza for two hours. And believe me we all got our money's worth. The food was delicious, the conversation even better and the atmosphere was sloshed. The newlyweds turned up after everyone else with yet another change of clothes, and with an MC dressed as a cherry tree making introductions Jamie was singing again and Tiger's band was soon playing, and Sally and I were lurching around the room with me taking pictures of her mimicking the stars on the wall- "now Farrah Fawcett! Now Linda Ronstandt! Now Shelly Winters!...!" and then at Yoko's request starting the dancing when the band had finished.

Then it was karaoke. 35 people in 2 rooms in Big Echo (not cheap) karaoke for 4 hours of drink, singing and alcohol, with much more dancing and shouting and lashings of beer. The whole day was hugely social and this was a gerat ending place. Big Echo were pleased too as the bill came to 150,000yen! More than I paid for my flight home at Christmas... On our way back to the hotel we stopped in a fast food place and I am struggling to recall what I ate. I almost wouldn't have eaten anything if Hiroshi and Tomoko hadn't helped to find a non-meat option-I was looking but I wasn't seeing.

And Sunday was quite a tiring day as with only five hours' sleep we all headed out, the others going home and me hanging about in Hiroshima to complete trainer quest. And stupidly to leave my bag on the train on the way back to Onomichi, so I had to drive to Okayama to collect it, but managed to catch up with Amy and Herb albeit briefly.

So weddings are still great. And Japanese weddings are not the formal etiquette-laden horrors I secretly suspected them to be. Although I have a strong feeling that this was not a typical Japanese wedding...